Cordillera Blanca Tocllaraju Peak climb 6034m
Tocllaraju 4 Days / Ishinca + Tocllaraju 5 or 6 days
Tocllaraju: 6034m (19797 ft)
Grade: D / Hard / Some steep & technical climbing
Ishinca: 5530m (18143 ft)
Grade: PD- / Moderate , Beginner Suitable
Want to climb a 6000m peak?
At 6034m, Tocllaraju is a good option for climbers who want to challenge of making the summit of a 6000m peak. All the 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca are very physically demanding & semi-technical to technical climbs, but in good conditions Tocllaraju can be an achievable goal for strong climbers.
There are some sections of steep and technical climbing on Tocllaraju and previous climbing experience with fundamental climbing skills & confidence are required. Tocllaraju is not suitable for novice climbers.
Tocllaraju can be climbed in 4 days, but it is necessary to already be well acclimatised and it is advisable to gain important acclimatisation first by climbing the easier non technical Ishinca.
Donkeys carry equipment to Base Camp. Porters carry tents, food, climbing rope up to Morena Camp on Tocllaraju and return, but you need to carry your own personal gear.
The climb starts from the left of the tunnel climbing up an unmarked rocky trail and over moraine rock, sometimes steeply, for around two hours until we reach the Mateo glacier where we put on climbing gear (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe) and rope up.
To get onto the glacier we have to initially climb up a 40m steep ice wall and the guide will fix a rope if necessary and help you with this. The rest of the route is a steady climb on mostly nice snow slopes up 40 to 50 degrees, mixed with some steep short sections of hard ice which the guide will help you with. It is around 2 hours climb from the start of the glacier to the summit.
On the broad summit you are rewarded with spectacular close views of all the surrounding mountains and good photo opportunities.
Descend back the same way and drive to Huaraz arriving tired but happy around mid afternoon
Note 1: Acclimatisation & Fitness
This is a VERY HARD trek and it is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before you depart from Huaraz to start the trek.
On the first day when you travel from Huaraz to Quartelhuain 4168m / 13675ft by road you have an altitude gain of 1100m / 3609ft in a single day and on the first day trekking you cross a pass of 4680m / 15354ft
We highly recommend three days (four nights) for acclimatisation in Huaraz, doing day hikes progressively gaining altitude to above 4000m to be well acclimatised for this trek.
If you start your trek from Quartelhuain at 4168m without sufficient acclimatisation, the risk of becoming unwell with altitude related problems during the first days of the trek is high
It is important to have good physical fitness and be able to hike up to 2 hours to the top of a high pass each day during the trek.
Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.
The trail over Trapecio Pass is not a formed trail. Much of the way is route finding through tussock grasses and over moraine rock. You need to be comfortable with this type of hiking
You should NOT consider this 9 (or 8) day trek unless you have good physical fitness and are well acclimatised to the altitude.
Note 2
Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower.
Note 3
The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route
Note 4
The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes
Note 5
All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.
Itinerary
Day 1: 5150m / 16896ft
The 6 day itinerary with Ishinca + Tocllaraju is:
Drive 1½ hours from Huaraz to the village of either Pashpa or Collon (3400m). We then walk up the valley Quebrada Ishinca on a gently rising path to our camp at the head of the valley. 4 to 5 hours
Climb Ishinca. A steady climb initially on a good path and then on loose rock and large moraine rock until we reach the ice. The climb is usually not very steep apart from the final 20 metres to the summit. In some years depending on the condition of the glacier there can be some short steep sections or hard ice. Return the same way to Base Camp. 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.
Optional Rest day between the two climbs. Recommended but can be deleted to make a 5 day trip.
Climb up through moraine rock to Tocllaraju Morena Camp (5300m). It is necessary to carry all equipment. 3 to 4 hours.
Depart early to climb to the summit. The route is mixed with nice gentle snow slopes, some large crevasses & snow bridges which need to be negotiated, and some steep & exposed ridges up to 70 degrees. There is an approximately 65m bergschrund to climb below the summit which is quite exposed and the guide may fix a rope. Return back to Base Camp. 12 to 14 hours for the day.
Walk down the Ishinca Valley to Pashpa and return to Huaraz.
For 5 days Ishinca + Tocllaraju, delete the rest day.
For Tocllaraju only – 4 days.
Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked
Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.
Kms hiked are estimated.
Trek Roads
Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.
Print Copy / PDF trek description & more photos
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