Cordillera Blanca Huascaran Peak climb 6768m
6 or 7 days trekking – One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz
Grade:
AD / some technical climbing / very physically demanding
Highest Point:
6768m / 22205 ft
Huascarán is the highest mountain in Peru and as such is the goal of many climbers coming to the Cordillera Blanca
In the past Huascaran was not been an especially technical mountain to climb and in some older guidebooks has been described as being non-technical and suitable for beginner level climbers – but in recent years changes to the glacier have made the going more difficult and technical. This, combined with the high altitude makes Huascaran a very physically demanding mountain to climb.
To climb Huascaran you need to be very well acclimatised to the altitude, in good physical condition, with good fitness and stamina. We always recommend clients do a trek of minimum 4 days followed by climbing a 5000m peak 2 to 4 days for extra acclimatisation and fitness before attempting to climb Huascaran
There are sections of steep and technical climbing on Huascaran. Climbers need to be experienced on steep ice and comfortable with using ice screws, snow stakes, anchor systems and descent by rappel. Huascaran is NOT a suitable climb for novice level climbers
Huascarán is subject to high risk of ice fall and avalanche and can also be heavily crevassed. The area between High Camp 1 and High Camp 2 known as the “caneleta and the traverse after the caneleta” is very risky due to overhanging seracs and risk of ice fall. If at the time of your climbing expedition, information received from previous groups indicates unstable and unsafe conditions, we will recommend an alternative climb for safety reasons. When planning your trip, it is best to have an alternative “Plan B” in place
Note 1: Acclimatisation & Fitness
This is a VERY HARD trek and it is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before you depart from Huaraz to start the trek.
On the first day when you travel from Huaraz to Quartelhuain 4168m / 13675ft by road you have an altitude gain of 1100m / 3609ft in a single day and on the first day trekking you cross a pass of 4680m / 15354ft
We highly recommend three days (four nights) for acclimatisation in Huaraz, doing day hikes progressively gaining altitude to above 4000m to be well acclimatised for this trek.
If you start your trek from Quartelhuain at 4168m without sufficient acclimatisation, the risk of becoming unwell with altitude related problems during the first days of the trek is high
It is important to have good physical fitness and be able to hike up to 2 hours to the top of a high pass each day during the trek.
Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.
The trail over Trapecio Pass is not a formed trail. Much of the way is route finding through tussock grasses and over moraine rock. You need to be comfortable with this type of hiking
You should NOT consider this 9 (or 8) day trek unless you have good physical fitness and are well acclimatised to the altitude.
Note 2
Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower.
Note 3
The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route
Note 4
The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes
Note 5
All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.
Itinerary
Day 1: 5150m / 16896ft
Drive 1 ½ hours to Musho where we load our gear onto donkeys and start hiking to Huascarán Base Camp at 4350m. Approx. 4 hours hike to base camp
From here onwards we have to carry all equipment in backpacks. We climb for around 3 hours on rock and large moraine boulders until we arrive at the glacier where we put crampons on. From the start of the glacier a steep climb of 2 ½ hours to High Camp 1 (5260m)
This is the most dangerous section of the route as we have to pass below a field of overhanging seracs with possibility of serec avalanches. There are also crevasses fields to negotiate. We need to move quickly across the risk area. There are sections of steep and technical climbing and you may have to ice climb 55 deg. to 65 deg on ice walls.
If there is serious risk of ice fall on the day you climb the guide will make the decision for the safety of everyone to turn back & that decision must be respected
5 to 6 hours to High Camp 2 (6000m).
We leave at midnight to climb to the summit. Initially we have to negotiate around or climb through some large crevasses. We then have a section of less steep climbing before coming to some steeper sections of 50 deg. to 65 deg which have some traverses with exposed climbing before another long steady climb to the summit, taking care as there are crevasses all the way to the summit. We return to High Camp 2 with some rappels. Avarage from 11 to 12 hour day.
Depart Camp 2 early to pass under the seracs fields while it is still cold then descend all the way back to base camp
6 to 7 hours descent.
Walk to Musho 3 hours,meet our vehicle for drive back to Huaraz.
RESERVE DAY for bad weather or rest
Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked
Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.
Kms hiked are estimated.
Trek Roads
Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.
Print Copy / PDF trek description & more photos
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