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Tents at the Chopicalqui moraine high camp (5000m), the base for the summit attempt on the 6354m peak.
A roped-up guided team ascending the glacier of Chopicalqui (6354m) during the 4-day climbing expedition.
Climbers navigating the famous final snow ridge towards the 6354m summit of Chopicalqui, Cordillera Blanca.

Cordillera Blanca Chopicalqui Peak climb 6354m

05 days trekking – One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Grade:

TD / Difficult, long serious climbs

Highest Point:

6354m / 20846 ft

Chopicalqui is considered by some to be the third peak of Huascaran at 6354m.

It is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep and technical ice climbing. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended, and a high standard of fitness and strength is also necessary. Chopicalqui is NOT a suitable peak for beginner climbers.

From the summit climbers are rewarded with tremendous views of the surrounding peaks of Huascarán, Yanapaqcha, Chacraraju, Pisco and Huandoy, as well as Contrahierbas, Ulta, Hualcan and many others.

 

The route begins following a major glacier uphill, then steepens onto a broad ridge with route-finding skills needed to avoid crevasses and seracs. Higher up the ridge narrows and steepens, and while it is not highly technical it is exposed in some places.

Most of the climb is on snow slopes of 40 to 50 deg. but there is a section of about 200m with slopes of up to 65deg. with belayed climbing on snow and ice necessary some years.

This is a VERY HARD trek and it is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before you depart from Huaraz to start the trek. 

On the first day when you travel from Huaraz to Quartelhuain 4168m / 13675ft by road you have an altitude gain of 1100m / 3609ft in a single day and on the first day trekking you cross a pass of 4680m / 15354ft 

We highly recommend three days (four nights) for acclimatisation in Huaraz, doing day hikes progressively gaining altitude to above 4000m to be well acclimatised for this trek.

 If you start your trek from Quartelhuain at 4168m without sufficient acclimatisation, the risk of becoming unwell with altitude related problems during the first days of the trek is high

It is important to have good physical fitness and be able to hike up to 2 hours to the top of a high pass each day during the trek.

Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.

The trail over Trapecio Pass is not a formed trail. Much of the way is route finding through tussock grasses and over moraine rock. You need to be comfortable with this type of hiking

You should NOT consider this 9 (or 8) day trek unless you have good physical fitness and are well acclimatised to the altitude.

Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower.

The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route

The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes 

All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.

Itinerary

Day 1: 5150m / 16896ft

One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Drive 3 hours from Huaraz up the valley Quebrada Llanganuco. Walk 45 minutes to a Base Camp 4430m, carrying all equipment.

One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Climb sometimes steeply on a rocky moraine ridge to Morena Camp 4820m. 5 to 6 hours

One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

First climbing on moraine rock to the glacier. Then on snow slopes of varying degrees in steepness and negotiating around several crevasses to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours

One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and several sections of steep & technical climbing, with some ice wall climbing up to 75 deg. possible some years. There is a section of exposed climbing and a large crevasse to negotiate to reach the summit. Descend back with some rappels necessary to High Camp or Morena Camp, if you are feeling strong. 10 to 13 hours for the day.

One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Descend to Base Camp 5 to 6 hours, then return to Huaraz by private van.

Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked

Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.

Kms hiked are estimated.

Trek Roads

Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.

Other Climbing

Mateo

Duration: 3 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5530m / 18143ft

URUS & ISHINCA

Duration: 4 or 5 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5495m / 18028ft & 5530m / 18143ft

PISCO

Duration: 4 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5753m / 18875ft

Contact us for more information and prices.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.

 Print Copy / PDF trek description & more photos

For more Cordillera Blanca climbing information, prices, advice and personalised advice

For more Cordillera Blanca climbing information, prices, advice and personalised advice