Cordillera Blanca Artesonraju Peak climb 6025m
5 to 7 days trekking – One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz
Grade:
D+ to TD/ Technical
Highest Point:
6025m / 19767 ft
Artesonraju is a beautiful pyramid mountain which you may recognise from the Paramount Pictures movie logo.
It is a technical & difficult mountain to climb, with steep hard ice which can be mixed with soft, deep unstable snow and several serious ice pitches and is only recommended for experienced & confident climbers. In recent years, Artesonraju has unfortunately been the scene of several serious accidents.
The two routes to climb Artesonraju are;
*Via the Paron Valley South East Ridge 5 days (option for 6 with a reserve day)
*Via Santa Cruz Valley North East Ridge 6 days (option for 7 with a reserve day)
Conditions on Artesonraju are often difficult and unstable. Generally each year the route on one of the faces proves to be dangerous with high avalanche risk and climbing is only attempted from the alternative route. The decision as to which route is in safest condition to climb often cannot be made until just weeks before or even days before the climb. When planning your trip you should allow extra days in the event that the climbing is moved to the longer North East route for safety.
Note 1: Acclimatisation & Fitness
This is a VERY HARD trek and it is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before you depart from Huaraz to start the trek.
On the first day when you travel from Huaraz to Quartelhuain 4168m / 13675ft by road you have an altitude gain of 1100m / 3609ft in a single day and on the first day trekking you cross a pass of 4680m / 15354ft
We highly recommend three days (four nights) for acclimatisation in Huaraz, doing day hikes progressively gaining altitude to above 4000m to be well acclimatised for this trek.
If you start your trek from Quartelhuain at 4168m without sufficient acclimatisation, the risk of becoming unwell with altitude related problems during the first days of the trek is high
It is important to have good physical fitness and be able to hike up to 2 hours to the top of a high pass each day during the trek.
Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.
The trail over Trapecio Pass is not a formed trail. Much of the way is route finding through tussock grasses and over moraine rock. You need to be comfortable with this type of hiking
You should NOT consider this 9 (or 8) day trek unless you have good physical fitness and are well acclimatised to the altitude.
Note 2
Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower.
Note 3
The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route
Note 4
The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes
Note 5
All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.
Itinerary
Southeast Face from Paron Valley
Timing: 5 days (option for 6 days with reserve day)
Drive from Huaraz to Caraz and then on to Laguna Paron (3½ to 4 hours) then we trek around the lake to either camp at the head of the lake (1½ hours) or climb up above the lake one hour more to a nice camp in trees by a stream (4200m).
We climb up on a moraine ridge. Camp either on the moraine just below the glacier 4900m (1½ to 2 hours), or climb about another 2 hours up onto the glacier and camp in High Camp on the ice at 5100m.
We leave camp early for the summit climb. The route average steepness is between 45° and up to 70° with some pitches up to 85°. Often the climb commences with long stretches of soft snow before turning into hard ice as altitude increases. The slope gets steeper on the two last pitches of 100m requiring belays. 12 to 14 hours for the day.
Descend to Base Camp.
Walk around the lake to meet our van which will take us back to Huaraz.
Itinerary
North East Face from Santa Cruz Valley
Timing: 6 days (optional 7 days).
Drive 2 ½ hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2900m). Our gear is loaded onto donkeys and we hike 4 to 5 hours up the Santa Cruz Valley to camp near the river at Llamacorral (3750m).
An easy walk 5 hours up the valley still following the Santa Cruz route before turning off & making a short climb up to Base Camp Artesonraju which is situated almost at the base of Artesonraju at 4250m.
Hike up through some low scrub & trees to reach a moraine ridge. We climb up the moraine ridge (sometimes slippery and steep) for about 5 hours until we reach the Morena Camp at 5000m.
A short climb through the rocks to reach the glacier. About 4 hours climbing up the glacier on slopes 35° to 40° negotiating around crevasses and exposed ice bridges. There is a short steeper slope to climb just before reaching High Camp at 5600m.
Summit Day. An early start, beginning with climbing an ice wall up to a 65°, followed by a gentle slope leading up to the final ice wall around 280m of 70° a 80° slope. After the ice wall there is a false summit which involves negotiating around an exposed crevasses to reach the true summit. Descend by the same route to either Base Camp or stop at Morena Camp for the night. Around 12 to 14 hours.
Hike out to Cashapampa 7 to 8 hours where our private van will be to return us to Huaraz.
Extra Day in case of bad weather or for rest.
Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked
Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.
Kms hiked are estimated.
Trek Roads
Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.
Print Copy / PDF trek description & more photos
For more Cordillera Blanca climbing information, prices, advice and personalised advice
