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A technical ice climber leading a steep 60-degree pitch on the Alpamayo 'French Direct' route during a guided expedition in Peru.
The world-famous 'French Direct' route on the stunning fluted ice face of Nevado Alpamayo (5947m), a world-class technical climb in the Cordillera Blanca.
Climber on the 6036m summit of Quitaraju, with the iconic Alpamayo peak in the background, part of the combined Alpamayo-Quitaraju expedition.

Cordillera Blanca Alpamayo Peak climb 5947m

07 days trekking – One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz

Grade:

D – steep & technical climbing

Highest Point:

5947m / 17913 ft

Alpamayo is an amazing pyramid of ice and snow flutings, once voted to be the most beautiful mountain in the world.

The climb to the summit is steep & technical, and is suitable for experienced climbers only. We advise warm-up climbs on one or two peaks beforehand.

There is an option to also climb Quitaraju, adjacent to Alpamayo and climbed from the same high camp.

This itinerary is for 7 days & includes a day for rest or bad weather. You can be flexible where and how you spend this day.

This is a VERY HARD trek and it is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before you depart from Huaraz to start the trek. 

On the first day when you travel from Huaraz to Quartelhuain 4168m / 13675ft by road you have an altitude gain of 1100m / 3609ft in a single day and on the first day trekking you cross a pass of 4680m / 15354ft 

We highly recommend three days (four nights) for acclimatisation in Huaraz, doing day hikes progressively gaining altitude to above 4000m to be well acclimatised for this trek.

 If you start your trek from Quartelhuain at 4168m without sufficient acclimatisation, the risk of becoming unwell with altitude related problems during the first days of the trek is high

It is important to have good physical fitness and be able to hike up to 2 hours to the top of a high pass each day during the trek.

Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.

The trail over Trapecio Pass is not a formed trail. Much of the way is route finding through tussock grasses and over moraine rock. You need to be comfortable with this type of hiking

You should NOT consider this 9 (or 8) day trek unless you have good physical fitness and are well acclimatised to the altitude.

Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower.

The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route

The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes 

All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.

Itinerary

Day 1: 5150m / 16896ft

Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. Then hike to Llamacorral following the famous Santa Cruz trek route. Altitude at Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours.

Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours. Donkeys carry all equipment as far as base camp & return to Cashapampa. You carry just a light day pack on the trek in.

Flexible. Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp.
Or use this day as a bad weather day.
Or there is an option to continue up to an Intermediate camp Morena Camp today instead of going direct from Base Camp to High Camp in a single day.

First climbing on in places steep & slippery moraine rock. Once on the ice, the climbing is varied between easier slopes and steep ice slopes up to 70 deg. In some years there has been about 200m of ice cliff to climb and the guide may fix a rope here. About 6 to 7 hours testing climbing to reach High Camp, situated on a saddle between Alpamayo & Quitaraju at 5450m.

A steep & technical climb on ice to the summit with several hours of continual front pointing. Fixed rope may be used depending on clients skills and the number of other climbers on the route. Several rappels are needed to descend. Return to sleep at High Camp. 8 to 9 hours.

Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours.

Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.

Stay an extra night at High Camp to climb Quitaraju.

Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked

Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.

Kms hiked are estimated.

Trek Roads

Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.

Contact us for more information and prices.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.

 Print Copy / PDF trek description & more photos

For more Cordillera Blanca climbing information, prices, advice and personalised advice

For more Cordillera Blanca climbing information, prices, advice and personalised advice