These peaks are all technical level climbing – suitable for experienced climbers
Climbers need to be experienced and confident with using two ice tools on steep hard ice, and comfortable with using ice screws, snow stakes, anchor systems and descent by rappel, as well as rescue techniques
All the peaks have at least one camp up on the mountain. It is necessary to carry the tents, climbing equipment, food, sleeping bags etc up to the mountain camps. Our crew carry the tents, ropes, cooking equipment, fuel and food, but YOU need to carry your personal equipment, sleeping bag, mattress, clothes & climbing gear and need to have a backpack large enough for this. You can request to hire a private porter if you do not wish to carry your own equipment
ALPAMAYO
Duration: 6 or 7 days
Suitable for: Technical
Climbing Grade: TD
Summit Altitude: 5947m / 19511ft
HUASCARAN
Duration: 6 or 7 days
Suitable for: Technical
Climbing Grade: TD
Summit Altitude: 6768m / 22205ft
ARTESONRAJU
Duration: 6 or 7 days
Suitable for: Technical
Climbing Grade: TD
Summit Altitude: 6025m / 19767ft
Multiple Peaks Climbing Expeditions
Add one or more of the many Cordillera Blanca peaks to make an exciting climbing expedition
Some of the many options that previous clients have enjoyed have been:
Alpamayo + Quitaraju
Alpamayo + Artesonraju
Alpamayo + Huascaran
Add a 2 day climb of Vallunaraju first for extra acclimatisation and to “warm up” for the technical peaks to follow.
Ishinca + Tocllaraju + Artesonraju
Contact Us
to discuss what you might like to do. Our professional guides can give good advice as to which combination of peaks will give you a fantastic climbing experience after discussing with you what your level of climbing experience, skills and amount of time that you have available.
Best Time:
The best time for climbing the technical / advanced level peaks varies depending on which peak you are attempting, the degree of technical difficulty & altitude
Generally the best times are:
- Alpamayo – Late June to mid August
- Huascaran – Early July to mid August
- Artesonraju – Mid July to early August
This is the period when the weather is generally more settled and with more stable and safer snow conditions on these peaks. Although, being in the mountains we can never guarantee good weather and sudden changes in weather conditions or storms on the high mountains are always possible any time of the year.
Note that climatic conditions in the Andes are changing and are less predictable than previously. You need to be prepared that there may be bad weather or unsafe snow conditions at any time, even within the recommended time period for climbing
Acclimatisation:
It is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before attempting to climb any peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. The climbing at altitude is physically demanding and it is particularly important to be well acclimatised to the altitude for a 6000m (20,000ft) or technical peak. Without sufficient acclimatisation the chances of becoming ill with altitude issues on the mountain are high, or you may experience a complete loss of energy and be unable to continue with the climbing.
Altitude symptoms vary but can include headache, nausea or vomiting, breathlessness, lack of appetite, stomach problems, extreme lethargy and lack of energy, inability to sleep from mild to severe in extent. In extreme cases pulmonary or cerebral oedema are possible
We always recommend that our technical / advanced peak clients do a 3 day trek minimum for acclimatisation or a series of day hikes up to altitudes around 4500m followed by another climb on a 5000m non-technical peak for additional acclimatisation and strength before the demanding intermediate level climb and therefore can enjoy your climbing and have maximum opportunity to achieve your goals
Good options for acclimatisation climbs for these peaks are:
- Pisco (4 days)
- Yanapaccha (2 days + can add a day ice climbing / rescue work on the glacier)
- Vallunaraju (2 days + can add a day ice climbing / rescue work on the glacier)
Client to Guide Ratio:
for technical / advanced level peaks:
- maximum 2 clients per guide
- all guides are UIAGM international mountain guides on Alpamayo / Huascaran / Artesonraju
Climbing Grades:
TD (very hard)– Very difficult, long serious climbs
Climb Duration:
Is the number of days from departing Huaraz to returning to Huaraz. Travel days and acclimatisation days are extra
Climbing Equipment:
Our climbing guides provide group rope, snow stakes and ice screws. You need to provide your own personal climbing equipment. It is available for hire in Huaraz and we can help organise gear hire for you
A complete gear list is provided when you inquire about climbing trips
For climbing technical / advanced level peaks, typically the climbing gear you need will be:
- helmet
- plastic climbing boots
- automatic crampons plus snow anti blocks
- 1 x ice screw 16cm
- ACT – XP belay device
- ice axes – 2 x technical ice picks
- harness
- karabiners
- prussics
- daisy chain
- head torch
- suitable clothing (details in gear list)
For more climbing information, prices and personalised advice
