15 Day Circuit - Climbing Diablo Mudo - Trekking & Climbing In Huaraz, Peru

15 day circuit - Climbing Diablo Mudo

Duration:

15 days trekking

Grade:

Hard

Highest Point:

Trekking – Cuyoc Pass at 5017m Climbing – Diablo Mudo at 5229m

The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit has been nominated in several guidebooks as one of the classic trekking circuits of the world.

The Huayhuash is a compact, rugged range of jagged, vertical summits, including the second highest peak in Peru, Yerupajá Grande (6634m), as well as half a dozen other peaks above six thousand metres.

Every day on this trek, hikers are treated to awesome views of towering snow capped peaks, glaciers and turquoise-blue trout-filled lakes. There are 8 passes to cross on this spectacular trek, the highest (Cuyoc) at 5000m.

Our 15 day trek features a visit to the Base Camp of Siula Grande, made famous by the epic Joe Simpson book and film “Touching the Void”.

Important Note

In June 2009 the Huayhuash Community of Huayllapa closed access for trekkers to the Calinca Valley and Cutatambo. This is where the Siula Grande Base Camp is located. The community did this to protect the grazing for their cattle which are in the Calinca Valley. The trip to Siula Grande Base Camp has become so popular with trekkers that the number of trekking donkeys in the valley are decimating the grazing and causing damage to the fragile environment there. It is important that all trekking agencies respect the wishes of the local communities, as the whole of the Huayhuash Circuit is over private community-owned land.

At some times the community will permit groups to enter the Calinca valley to camp and visit Siula Grande Base Camp, but access is not guaranteed and the community will not make a decision on granting access until groups actually arrive in the area. It is not possible to request permission to enter before we depart from Huaraz.

If at the time your trek approaches Siula Base Camp, access is not permitted, we will camp in the Huanacpatay Valley and hike to the top of the San Antonio Pass from which we can see Siula Grande and the Base Camp.

*In 2019 season there was no problem with access to Calinca Valley and all our groups were permitted to camp there

Note 1: Grading

There are some demanding days of hiking on this trek and the length of the trek and the number of high passes together with two weeks of being continuously at altitudes above 4000m warrants a grade of Hard. You do need to have a good level of fitness and be comfortable with hiking a sustained uphill climb of two to three hours, and be able to manage prolonged descents from passes, with some short sections on loose & uneven ground. Trails are not formed paths and are not maintained, they are dirt trails also used by animals and are uneven underfoot.

After crossing the Cerro San Antonio range via Santa Rosa / Jurau Pass towards Siula Grande Base Camp there is a section of around 200m immediately below the pass where you descend down a steep shingle scree slope and you need to be comfortable with this type of alpine descent.

Most trekking options in the Cordillera Huayhuash & Blanca should be considered to be physically demanding owing to the altitude (you are above 4000m for the duration of the treks) and the mountainous nature of the terrain. Trails on this trek are often steep – both ascending or descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. If you do not think you can enjoy this type of trekking, let us know and we can suggest some easier options

The climb is optional. People not wishing to climb can continue on the hiking route to the campsite with the trek crew. You do not need climbing experience to Diablo Mudo as there is very little technical climbing in a normal year, we will provide full instruction and support.

Although we grade the climb as being suitable for beginner climbers, the altitude does make it demanding climbing. Although many guidebooks grade some climbs as “trekkers (or trekking) peaks”, (including Diablo Mudo) you are actually climbing with rope, ice axe and crampons and are at high altitude and it is more difficult than similar climbs at lower altitudes. We do NOT classify any peaks in the Cordillera Huayhuash & Blanca as “trekking peaks”. Even the non-technical and less steep climbs have long approaches to the glacier over rocky moraine and loose slippery terrain which many clients find to be demanding, so climbs should be considered as both mentally and physically challenging.

Rapid recession of the glaciers is causing climbing conditions to change rapidly also and it may be that when you could find conditions on the climb to be altered or more difficult than expected

You should only consider climbing if you have good fitness and stamina levels and are strong and comfortable with hiking on steep, sometimes loose, moraine rock.

Note 2

Walking times are average hiking times. The altitude affects people differently. Some people will be faster than the indicated times and others will be much slower

Note 3

The Cordillera Huayhuash is becoming known to be one of the most beautiful high altitude treks in the world. Although you are trekking through a remote area, you can expect that there will also be several other groups and also independent hikers on the route

Note 4

The Huayhuash trek route is all on community owned farmland. There are small farm houses and some farm animals (cattle, sheep, horses and sometimes alpacas & llamas) all along the trekking route, included surprisingly at the top of the high passes

Note 5

All land along the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking routes is privately owned community farmland (not National Park or Government owned). The local Huayhuash communities allow trekking groups to pass through and camp on their private land and we ask that all hikers respect their goodwill in allowing us to hike in the beautiful Cordillera Huayhuash by leaving no rubbish, taking care of farm animals and respecting the local people that we will meet along the trek route and in campsites. Each community charges access and camping fees for each campsite (included in trek fee). As part of the camping fee they provide toilets in the campsites.

Itinerary

Day A: Arrive Huaraz (3090m / 10138ft)
Day B & C: Acclimatization days in Huaraz. Day hikes to higher altitudes to acclimatise – either fully guided & supported or you can do your own hikes unguided

Huaraz to Llamac via Chiquián by Road

We drive from Huaraz to Chiquiàn, enjoying distant views of the awesome Huayhuash range from afar. From Chiquián we descend to a cactus-and-scrub environment and continue to the village of Llamac (3300m / 10827ft) where we set up our first camp. 4 to 5 hours drive. Camp is a short distance from the village.

Hike Llamac to Quartelhuain

We walk gradually up the Quebrada Llamac valley along the course of the Rio Llamac, passing through the small villages of Pocpa and Pallca. In 2005 a new road between Llamac and Quartelhuain was completed, and for much of the way we follow this rarely-used road; the scenery is so interesting & beautiful that the road is barely noticed anyway. Today is a relaxing hike with no steep ascents; it is also an extremely valuable extra acclimatisation day before crossing our first pass tomorrow. Beyond Pallca, the way opens up into a wide U-shaped grassy valley with rolling hills and flanked by broad expanses of some quenual (polylepis sp.) forest. We camp at Quartelhuain (4168m / 13675ft)

Note If you do not wish to hike from Llamac to Quartelhuain, you can choose to drive direct from Huaraz to Quartelhuain and camp there the first night. You MUST however have at least three days in Huaraz doing day hikes for acclimatisation for this option. To drive from Huaraz 3090m to Quartelhuain 4168m direct is an altitude gain of 1100m / 3610ft in a single day. If you are not already well acclimatised, the chance of becoming ill with altitude problems on the first days of trekking is high.

Quartelhuain to Laguna Mitucocha via Cacanan Punta Pass

This morning we cross our first pass, Cacanan Punta (4680m / 15354ft). Here, at the Continental Divide, we sometimes observe the Andean Condor flying overhead.

From the pass we have a view of the Lake Pucacocha. Then we descend down to the Quebrada Caliente and to the Jalca Plain and on to our camp at Janca (4242m / 13917ft) located in a beautiful plateau area at the foot of the stunning Jirishanka Grande peak, and its neighbours Rondoy and Ninashanca. If you have the energy, there’s the option this afternoon of walking around the lake Mitucocha or up to one of the nearby hanging valleys.

- The local community have requested that groups do not camp next to the lake to protect the grass for their animals in the area. The campsite is now 30 minutes hike down river from the lake in a flat area

Laguna Mitucocha to Laguna Carhuacocha via Punta Carhuac Pass

We flank the Jalca floodplain then ascend south to the Paso de Carhuac pass (4620m / 15157ft). From here an awesome panorama suddenly comes into view; a row of Huayhuash giants: Yerupajá Grande, the second highest mountain in Peru, Yerupajá Chico (6121m) and Siulá Grande (6344m), of “Touching the Void” fame.

From here we descend to the large Laguna Carhuacocha (4152m / 13622ft), with the chance en route of spotting Viscacha rodents among the moronic debris. We walk around the side of the lake, passing by some shepherds huts to arrive at the campsite by the lake. From our camp we look directly up the lake to the peaks and ice fields of the famous Siula Grande, Yerupajá Grande and Chico and Jirishanka Chico

Note

If the weather is good and you are feeling strong, we can take an alternative and far more demanding route between the Laguna Mitucocha and Carhuacocha lakes via a 4800m pass, with great close-up views of Jirishanca Chico and a beautiful deep-blue high lake Alcaycocha. There is no track to follow on the alternative route, and a short section of scrambling on rock has to be negotiated, so we only use this route for very fit and experienced trekkers.

Free day at Laguna Carhuacocha for Rest or a Day Hike

OPTION ONE: Siula Pass

Extra day at Carhuacocha

Day walk up to the first of the lakes Gangrajanca. This is a relaxing half day walk with beautiful scenery. Return to camp in the early afternoon and enjoy an afternoon resting at camp and admiring the views. Some people like to have a rest day and just walk around the camp, maybe visit some of the local people living at the lake or just walk around the lake

OPTION TWO: Carnicero Pass

Some groups choose to hike to Siula Lakes on the extra day and then hike over Carnicero Pass to Huayhuash. This way they enjoy the scenery on both routes

Extra day at Carhuacocha – Day Hike to Siula Lakes

Do a full day hike up past all three of the Siula Lakes. You can hike up to a view point with amazing views over all three lakes and the main Cordillera Huayhuash peaks towering on the left side. Enjoy lunch taking in the vistas of the lakes and jagged peaks

Laguna Carhuacocha to Huayhuash

Siula Lakes & Siula Pass or Carnicero Pass

Above Laguna Carhuacocha are the three spectacular Siula glacial lakes of Gangrajanca, Siula and Quesillococha at the foot of Yerupaja and Siula Grande mountains

Beyond the lakes is an alpine pass named Siula Pass at 4800m which is becoming the more popular route from Laguna Carhuacocha to Huayhuash

There are options for these two days with the extra day at Laguna Carhuacocha, depending on whether groups decide to cross though Siula Pass or take the alternative less physically demanding route through Carnicero Pass to Huayhuash

OPTION ONE: Siula Pass

Siula Pass to Huayhuash

First we walk around half an hour alongside Laguna Carhuacocha then we turn up the valley passing by some local farmers homes, following the same route from yesterday to Laguna Gangrajanca. The trail then starts climbing, steeply at times – passing by the three lakes Gangrajanca, Siula and Quesillococha and then climbing to 4800m Siula Pass. 5 hours from Carhuacocha to the top of the pass. The views of the mountains and glaciers during the ascent are very close and spectacular, and we often see avalanche ice floating in the lakes. This is an alpine crossing – some of the way is on loose shingle scree is steep in places – both going up and descending down from the pass. The descent to Laguna Carnicero and Huayhuash takes us across – or around – a vast flood plain of “cushion grass”. Those with sharp eyes may spot the graceful, elusive Vicuña – wild relative of the Alpaca – which live in this region.

3 hours from the pass to Huayhuash Camp, set among a sprinkling of local farm homes in the open Huayhuash valley (4340m / 14239ft)

Important Siula Pass is a good weather route. If there is bad weather, the guide will be recommending to go via Carnicero Pass. It is not safe to be on a remote high alpine pass in bad weather

Important The trek donkeys and rescue horse cannot go through Siula Pass, they must travel through Carnicero Pass. This means that during the day passing via Siula Pass you are not supported by the rescue horse or trek crew. In the event of any accident or illness, rescue and evacuation will be difficult and can take considerable time to arrange. You should only pass through this route if you are feeling strong, well acclimatised and are comfortable with alpine type hiking for a long day

OPTION TWO: Carnicero Pass

Laguna Carhuacocha to Huayhuash via Carnicero Pass

We leave Laguna Carhuacocha behind heading east, then turning up a side valley, ascend southwards towards the Paso Carnicero pass (4686m / 15374ft). It is not a difficult climb, although we will still feel the altitude. We make an easy descent, first passing by another beautiful lake Carnicero, then on to our camp located among a sprinkling of local farm homes in the open Huayhuash valley (4340m)

- Your guide will discuss with you when you arrive at Carhuacocha which option you prefer to take – it is possible for some people to decide to go via Siula Pass with your trek guide, while others can go via Carnicero pass with your trek cook

Huayhuash or Laguna Carnicero to Viconga Camp

We climb to the Portachuelo de Huayhuash pass (4771m) on a steady gradient. From here, looking southeast, we see a new collection of nearby snow peaks; this is the Cordillera Raura range and the nearby snow peak of Leon Huacanan and on the north east we see Puscanturpa mountain. We descend to and skirt around the large Laguna Viconga lake – look out for Alpacas – before walking down the valley for ½ hour to set up camp near the natural hot springs of Viconga (4405m). After enjoying afternoon tea at camp a visit to the al fresco open air hot springs could certainly be appreciated!

Bring a swimsuit + 5 soles entrance fee

Pass Punta Cuyoc to Huanacpatay

Today we cross our highest pass, Punta Cuyoc, with a sustained uphill hike of 3 hours to a breathtaking 5017m. The panoramas here are stunning: to the southeast the sharply serrated ridge of the Cordillera Raura is seen, and to the north, several of the giants of the Huayhuash range are seen from a new perspective. Sarapo (6127m) is also seen for the first time.

The initial 50m of the descent is quite steep and loose, becoming easier as we continue descending quickly to the broad Quebrada Huanacpatay valley, where we stop for lunch. We then have a relaxing and easy hike down to our camp at the top of the valley (this camp is referred to as Cuyoc Camp or Elefante Camp in some publications) (4490m).

Huanacpatay Camp to Cutatambo, via Cerro San Antonio & Santa Rosa Pass

From camp we climb to a pass (named Santa Rosa or also Jurau Pass) on the mountain range of Cerro San Antonio. This is a demanding day with some steep hiking, but by now you should be well acclimatised and feeling strong at altitude. After 2 hours we are on the top of the pass at 5000m, with fantastic views of all the giants of the Cordillera Huayhuash and the 3 lakes of Sarapococha, Santa Rosa & Jurau. We can also see the Siula Glacier which Joe Simpson crawled down in his epic battle for survival, and we see Siula Base Camp quite clearly in the distance.

The descent is initially steep on alpine scree for around 200m. It is good to have trekking poles for this section if you are not very comfortable with descending alpine scree. We then traverse & follow a cattle trail winding down to Lake Jurau and finally to our camp in the Quebrada Calinca at Cutatambo in Calinca Valley (4260m).

Note

If we are not permitted to enter the Calinca Valley, we spend an extra night at our Huanacpatay camp and do a day hike up to the Cerro San Antonio pass. This is a demanding day with some steep hiking, but by now you should be well acclimatised and feeling strong at altitude. After 2 hours we are on the top of the pass at 4800m, with fantastic views of all the giant peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash and the 3 lakes of Sarapococha, Santa Rosa & Jurau. We can see the Siula Glacier which Joe Simpson crawled down in his epic battle for survival, and we see Siula Base Camp quite clearly in the distance. We will spend the extra day either with a rest day at Huanacpatay or we will hike into the Rasac valley near Laguna Jahuacocha and spend a night there. Rasac valley is a remote valley surrounded by mountains and a beautiful spot to camp. A decision will be made at the time between the guide and group members as to how to spend the extra day.

Free day for exploration – Siula Base Camp & Sarapococha Lake

Today we can walk past the base camp of Siula Grande (Joe Simpson – “Touching The Void”) and visit the glacial lakes of Sarapococha and Santa Rosa. If wanted you can climb up to a high point called “Cerro Gran Vista” for views over the lake and glacier. Returning to camp and a relaxing afternoon.

Cutatambo to Huatiac via Huayllapa Village

A harder day today as it is the only day on the trek where we make our climb UP to a campsite in the afternoon. We walk easily back down the Quebrada Calinca valley, which becomes the agricultural Quebrada Huayllapa valley (the first sign of crops for over a week). We continue until, just before the tiny village of Huayllapa 3600m / 11811ft (the first village since Llamac and last before we return to Llamac), we begin a hard climb in the afternoon of about 3½ hours to our campsite high up on the flat pasture of Huatiac (4265m / 13993ft).

Huatiac to Cashpapampa, via the Punta Tapush Pass

An easier day, we cross the Punta Tapush pass (4791m / 15719ft), then descend past Laguna Susucocha before reaching our flat campsite at Cashpapampa located beside a small lake (4528m / 14856ft).

Note From the top of the pass there is an option to climb about another 100m to a view point of the Cordillera Huayhuash range and take a different route into camp.

Climb Diablo Mudo (optional)

Those climbing today leave camp at 02:00am and walk steady uphill on a path for 1½ hours. We then have a steep ascent for about 2 hours until we reach the north ridge of Diablo Mudo. We follow the ridge for about 40 minutes and then access the glacier via some loose scree. We put on crampons and rope up, then climb steadily up the glacier. Sometimes the guides will cut steps, but the going is not difficult and we should reach the summit after 2 to 3 hours on the ice. The descent is a via a different route; we descend to the Huacrish Valley. The first section of descent is on ice, followed by ¾ hour of descent on rock then scree. Then the route becomes significantly easier as we join a path through the meadows of the Quebrada Huacrish valley. We join the main path and proceed to hike down the entire Huacrish valley to its confluence with the Quebrada Jahuacocha valley and descend on zig-zags to our picturesque camp at the head of the beautiful Laguna Jahuacocha (4150m).

11 to 12 hours for the day.

The non climbers set off from our Cashpapampa camp with our crew and after a half hour’s descent, turn east and climb to the Punta Yaucha pass (4838m). During the descent the peaks of Rondoy, Jirishanca, Yerupajá, Rasac (6017m) and Sacra come into view. We follow the Quebrada Huacrish valley to its confluence with the Quebrada Jahuacocha valley and descend on zig-zags to our picturesque camp at the head of the beautiful Laguna Jahuacocha (4060m). Across the lake from our camp we enjoy one of the best panoramas in the Andes; the west faces of the highest peaks in the range rising dramatically skyward. There are Jirishanca, Yerupajá Grande with its vast snaking glacier, Yerupajá Chico and Rondoy.

Extra Day at Laguna Jahuacocha

We stay at Jahuacocha for some rest & relaxation and maybe a touch of trout fishing. You may choose to take an optional day hike to Laguna Solteracocha (4120m), a moraine-enclosed glacial lake beyond Jahuacocha, and then further towards Punta Sambuya pass (4750m) at the base of Nevado Rondoy peak for some truly awesome close-up views of Yerupajá, Jirishanka and Rondoy. Or if you want a more demanding hike, we can climb up Cerro Amarrillo peak (5000m) for views over the whole Huayhuash range and down into Quartel Huain where we camped on our second night. The latter is a tough day hike and on the top you walk along an exposed section of ridge. There is also a short section of the descent on shingle scree, but it is worth the effort for the breathtaking views.

Walk from Jahuacocha to Llamac via the Llamac pass. Drive to Huaraz

After an early start and gentle descent for an hour, we start our gradual climb to the final pass, Pampa Llamac (4289m / 14072ft), from where we have our final views of much of the Huayhuash range. Then it is a long descent back to the Llamac valley and the village of Llamac (3300m / 10827ft). In Llamac the bus will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz and your hotel for that long-awaited hot shower!! We arrive in Huaraz at about 06:00pm.

There are options to do this trek route in 13 or 14 days, just check with us

Hiking Hours & Kms Hiked

Hiking hours are estimated times including rest breaks and lunch stop. Times are for our average groups based on past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.

Kms hiked are estimated.

Trek Roads

Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.

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