Never climbed on snow and ice with rope, ice axe and crampons before? or Have some basic glacier walking experience and would like to learn snow / ice climbing skills? or Do you have previous climbing experience and would like to learn advanced climbing & rescue skills so you can become a lead climber?
There are several peaks in the Cordillera Blanca that have good sites on the glaciers for exciting climbing instruction
We have a team of professional UIAGM climbing instructors who will provide you with safe intensive instruction to help you progress quickly, learn new skills and confidence and most of all to HAVE FUN!
We will discuss with you during our email correspondence to assess the type and level of instruction you will benefit from. We will also have a meeting with you and your guide when you arrive in Huaraz to discuss your previous experience and things you will like to achieve from your course so that we and your guide can design a course especially tailored to your needs and aspirations.
These are our most popular climbing instruction course options:
VALLUNARAJU INSTRUCTION COURSE
- 3 to 5 days
- Beginner, Intermediate or Advanced climbing options
- Finish with summit climb to Vallunaraju 5686m / 18655ft
CLIMBING COURSE
+ SUMMITS PROGRAMS
We combine an intensive 5 days mountaineering instruction course on Vallunaraju with climbing two follow up summits in the Peruvian Andes
- 12 or 13 days
- Beginner, Intermediate or Advanced climbing options
The follow up peaks are:
Twin Peaks Adventure – Pisco + Yanapaccha 12 days
- Two exciting & challenging climbs for beginner level climbers
6000m Challenge – Ishinca + Tocllaraju 12 days
- Suitable for those who may have had some previous basic climbing experience – such as glacier hiking with crampons – and who now want to learn some technical skills
- Maybe your first 6000m peak
Chopicalqui Expedition – Yanapaccha + Chopicalqui 13 days
- -Suitable for those who have had some previous climbing experience and already have basic ice climbing skills – wanting to extend their experience
- Finish with 6354m / 20846ft Chopicalqui
Best Time:
The best time for these climbing programs are:
- Climbing Instruction on Vallunaraju, Pisco = early May to late September
- Yanapaccha = mid May to early September
- Tocllaraju = mid June to mid September
- Chopicalqui = late June to late August
This is the period when the weather is generally more stable and with good snow conditions. Although, being in the mountains we can never guarantee good weather and sudden changes in weather conditions or storms on the high mountains are always possible any time of the year.
However, climatic conditions in the Andes are changing and are less predictable than previously, and you need to be prepared that there may be bad weather at any time, even in the months normally considered to be the “dry season”
Acclimatisation:
It is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before attempting to climb any peaks in the Cordillera Blanca to avoid possible problems with lack of energy or altitude related illnesses when climbing. Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even if the climbing is not steep or technical.
Altitude symptoms vary but can include headache, nausea or vomiting, breathlessness, lack of appetite, stomach problems, extreme lethargy and lack of energy, inability to sleep from mild to severe in extent. In extreme cases pulmonary or cerebral oedema are possible
We always recommend that our climbing instruction clients do a trek of minimum 3 days to altitudes around 4500m or higher or a series of 3 day hikes from Huaraz for acclimatisation and extra fitness to ensure that you are well acclimatised and therefore can enjoy your climbing and have maximum opportunity to achieve your goals.
We can organize a suitable acclimatisation trek or day hikes for you if you are not making your own trek. Just let us know and we can send you some suggestions and prices or you can choose to do your own day hikes and we can arrange transport
Client to Guide Ratio:
- maximum 3 clients per guide for Instruction, Pisco, Ishinca, Yanapaccha
- maximum 2 clients per guide for Tocllaraju & Chopicalqui
- the lead guide is UIAGM international mountain guide
- assistant guides are certified Aspirant Guides, members of the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association
Fitness & carrying Gear:
For a climbing course you need to have good fitness and & be strong enough to be able to climb & hike for a long day of up to 10 hours, as well as carry a medium weight backpack with all your equipment up the steep trail to mountain camp.
It is necessary to carry the tents, climbing equipment, food, sleeping bags etc up to the camps on the mountain on a very steep trail.
Our crew carry the tents, ropes and food, but YOU need to carry your personal equipment, sleeping bags & mattress & climbing gear and need to have a backpack large enough for this.
You should not attempt a climbing instruction course unless you have good physical fitness & endurance and are strong enough to carry your equipment up a very steep trail.
You can request to hire a private porter if you do not wish to carry your own equipment
Climb Duration:
Is the number of days from departing Huaraz to returning to Huaraz. Travel days and acclimatisation days are extra
Climbing Equipment:
Our climbing guides provide group rope, snow stakes and ice screws. You need to provide your own personal climbing equipment. It is available for hire in Huaraz and we can help organise gear hire for you
A complete gear list is provided when you inquire about climbing trips
For a climbing instruction course you need:
- ATC – XP Belay Device
- Plastic Climbing boots
- Ice axes – 2 x technical ice picks
- Harness
- Karabiners
- Automatic crampons plus snow anti blocks
- 1 x ice screw 16cm
- Helmet
- Prussics
- Daisy Chain
- Sling 5mt
- head torch
- suitable clothing (details in gear list)
For more climbing information, prices and personalised advice