Beginner Suitable Climbs - Trekking & Climbing In Huaraz, Peru

Beginner Suitable Climbs

Looking for a Peruvian Andes adventure? Take up the challenge of climbing a Cordillera Blanca snow peak

For those with good fitness and endurance together with a sense for adventure, we have some climbing peaks considered as being suitable for beginner level climbers

peaks are less than 6000m in altitude / non-technical climbing
suitable for people who have never climbed on snow and ice before
climbing rope, ice axe, crampons are used on all the climbs – previous experience with these is not necessary – the guide(s) will help you with basic techniques
good fitness and strength are necessary

Also: are good climbs as “warm up” & acclimatisation climbs for experienced climbers planning on climbing peaks over 6000m or technical peaks (Beginner Plus)

Note – Difficulty

We consider all the “beginner suitable” climbs to be HARD because the high altitude at up to 5700m does make it physically demanding. Although many guidebooks grade the climbs as a “trekkers (or “trekking”) peaks”, you are actually climbing while roped up with crampons and with an ice axe, sometimes on steep snow slopes and, of course, at high altitude. It is more difficult than similar climbs at lower altitudes. We do NOT regard any of the peaks in the Cordillera Blanca as “trekking peaks” and all climbs involve true physically demanding mountaineering

The climbs have a long approach to the glacier over steep rocky moraine which many clients find demanding & difficult. The climb should be considered as being physically challenging

On peaks with a high camp up the mountain (Pisco & Vallunaraju) – the route from Base Camp to Mountain Camp on is on steep, loose moraine rock and it is necessary to carry your gear. You need to able to carry a medium weight backpack on steep terrain over rocky, loose and uneven ground

Other peaks are climbed in a day from Base Camp and back to Base Camp – you carry only a light day backpack for the day (Urus, Ishinca, Mateo)

ISHINCA

Duration: 3 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5530m / 18143ft

URUS & ISHINCA

Duration: 4 or 5 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5495m / 18028ft & 5530m / 18143ft

PISCO

Duration: 4 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5753m / 18875ft

VALLUNARAJU

Duration: 2 days
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD to AD-
Summit Altitude: 5686m / 18655ft

MATEO

Duration: one day ex Huaraz
Suitable for: Beginner Plus
Climbing Grade: PD
Summit Altitude: 5150m / 16896ft

Best Time:

The best time for climbing the beginner suitable peaks is mid to late May to September.

This is the period when the weather is generally more stable and with good snow conditions. Although, being in the mountains we can never guarantee good weather and sudden changes in weather conditions or storms on the high mountains are always possible any time of the year.

However, climatic conditions in the Andes are changing and are less predictable than previously, and you need to be prepared that there may be bad weather at any time, even in the months normally considered to be the “dry season”

Acclimatisation:

It is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before attempting to climb any peaks in the Cordillera Blanca to avoid possible problems with lack of energy or altitude related illnesses when climbing. Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even if the climbing is not steep or technical.

Altitude symptoms vary but can include headache, nausea or vomiting, breathlessness, lack of appetite, stomach problems, extreme lethargy and lack of energy, inability to sleep from mild to severe in extent. In extreme cases pulmonary or cerebral oedema are possible

We always recommend that our clients do a trek of minimum 3 days to altitudes around 4500m or higher or a series of 3 day hikes from Huaraz for acclimatisation and extra fitness to ensure that you are well acclimatised and therefore can enjoy your climbing and have maximum opportunity to achieve your goals.

We can organize a suitable acclimatisation trek or day hikes for you if you are not making your own trek. Just let us know and we can send you some suggestions and prices or you can choose to do your own day hikes and we can arrange transport

Client to Guide Ratio:

for 5000m and non-technical peaks:

maximum 3 clients per guide
the lead guide is UIAGM international mountain guide
assistant guides are certified Aspirant Guides, members of the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association

Climbing Grades:

PD (moderate) – Moderate snow climbs – a rope is necessary

PD to AD- (reasonably hard) – Routes with a fair amount of difficult climbing

Climb Duration:

Is the number of days from departing Huaraz to returning to Huaraz. Travel days and acclimatisation days are extra

Climbing Equipment:

Our climbing guides provide group rope, snow stakes and ice screws. You need to provide your own personal climbing equipment. It is available for hire in Huaraz and we can help organise gear hire for you

A complete gear list is provided when you inquire about climbing trips

For climbing these peaks you will need:

helmet
harness
ice axe (regular)
crampons – automatic snap on
plastic climbing boots or Sportif or other similar sturdy stiff sole & waterproof boots designed to hold automatic snap on crampons
2 locking karabinas, prussic & sling
head torch
suitable clothing (details in gear list)